Khaman Dhokla

Set up your steamer: fill with 4–5 cm of water and bring to a full boil. Grease a 20–22 cm round tin or thali with oil. The tin must already be greased and inside the steamer before you add the ENO — you have about 60 seconds from ENO to steamer lid, so prepare everything in advance. In a large bowl, whisk together the sifted besan, 15 g sugar, turmeric, salt, oil, ginger-chilli paste, and lemon juice. Add the lukewarm water gradually, whisking to form a smooth, lump-free batter with a consistency slightly thicker than pancake batter — it should fall off a spoon in a thick ribbon. Taste: it should be tangy, faintly sweet, and well-seasoned.

About 8 min

When the steamer water is at a vigorous boil and you are ready to move fast: sprinkle the ENO fruit salt over the batter. Immediately pour 1 tablespoon of water directly onto the ENO — it will fizz dramatically. Fold the mixture gently but quickly with a spatula, using only 5–7 large folds. Do not overmix — you want to keep as many CO2 bubbles intact as possible. The batter will increase visibly in volume and look airy and bubbly. Pour it immediately into the greased tin, place in the steamer, and cover with a tight-fitting lid.

About 3 min

Steam over high heat for 15–18 minutes without lifting the lid — steam loss mid-cook will cause the dhokla to sink and turn dense. After 15 minutes, insert a skewer or toothpick into the centre: it should come out completely clean. The surface should be firm and slightly springy when pressed, and the dhokla will have pulled away from the edges of the tin slightly. Remove from the steamer and allow to cool in the tin for 5 minutes before cutting.

About 18 min

Make the tempering: heat the oil in a small pan over medium-high heat. Add the mustard seeds and cover — they'll pop loudly within 30 seconds. Add the slit green chillies and curry leaves (stand back, they'll hiss and splutter). Add the sesame seeds and stir for 10 seconds. Remove from heat. Immediately add 4 tablespoons of water and the remaining 15 g of sugar to the hot pan — it will sizzle. Stir until the sugar dissolves completely into a thin syrup.

About 3 min

Cut the dhokla into 5 cm squares or diamond shapes while still in the tin, using a sharp knife. Pour the hot mustard-sugar syrup evenly over the entire surface — it will sizzle on contact and immediately soak into every cut and edge. The syrup is what gives khaman its characteristic glistening appearance and sweet-savoury balance; don't skip it or reduce the quantity. Scatter chopped fresh coriander over the top. Serve warm with green coriander chutney and sweet tamarind chutney on the side.

About 4 min